Delmonico's Restaurant in New York

1813 - 1881

It may be surprising that a tiny village in the mountains of Italian.speaking Switzerland should produce a successful sea captain; but even more surprising is the impact that that captain, and his family, had on the eating habits of the rich and famous of America in the 19th century.

The captain was Giovanni – Americanized to John – Delmonico, who with his pastry-cook brother Pietro – Peter – opened America's European-style restaurant in 1830. Up until then, guests at eating houses had to turn up at a set time and were served a set meal. At Delmonico's they came when they chose, and selected their meal from a menu – a menu that included subtle French sauces and unfamiliar vegetables like eggplant, endive and artichokes.

The business thrived, and the brothers needed help. Enter Lorenzo, their 19 year old nephew, who came out from Mairengo in 1831, and made a successful restaurant into a dining phenomenon. On John's sudden death in 1842, Lorenzo became general manager.

He made his mark by his attention to detail – up at 4 am every day to oversee purchases of supplies at the market, on duty every evening to ensure the diners were happy; by his business acumen – following the development of New York and moving and expanding his restaurants to meet the needs of his clientele, whether politicians, businessmen, or the social set; and by the genius of his chefs, in particular Charles Ranhofer.

It is to Delmonico's that gourmets owe the Dolmenico steak and lobster à la Newburg, and it was Delmonico's restaurant that christened the Baked Alaska in 1874, in honour of the newly acquired US territory.

Lorenzo died in New York and is buried there, but he did not forget his home. He was a benefactor to the village of Mairengo and its church, where a memorial to him can still be seen.